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Franck inspects his vineyard in prime Cornas Franck Balthazar, who looks like a slighter, younger Sean Connery, was getting me car sick. I had zipped down from Burgundy. For one day, I teamed up with my friend Amy Lillard, ofLa Gramièreand we were in Franck’s clangy truck, taking the curves, and heading up into the heart of the Cornas terroir, an amphitheater of vines.
2004 is widely regarded as the worst Burgundian vintage of the last decade. There was cold, there was hot, there was wet and there was rot. And, for some reason there was an overabundance of ladybugs. Some believe that thisladybug taintcontributed to the compound called methoxypyrazines found in that vintage.
I offer you this knish. Knish, In Search of the Jewish Soul Food,by Laura Silver, is coming out in May from Brandeis University Press. I was impressed. Silver's story begins on the one-year anniversary of her grandmother's death when she drove to Brighton Beach in search of her Grandma Fritzy's favorite, Mrs. Stahl's. She was craving a memorial knish. The storefront was intact, but Mrs.