• brothers in arms: le cave à michel, 75010

    … dined at Le Galopin, I found it had more in common with Restaurant Pierre Sang Boyer than with, say, Bones; where the latter restaurant aims to impress fellow chefs, the former two restaurants seem to target the beginner-gourmand audience their respective chefs attained with TV exposure. A surefire indicator of this is the kitchen-sink dish, the plate…

    Aaron Ayscough/ not drinking poison in paris- 5 readers -
  • reborn: vivant cave, 75010

    … bent of the old menu is a magpie aesthetic that, while rooted in France, borrows from as far afield as Lebanon, Japan, and Forstorp's native Sweden. A tomato salad with shiso leaves was literally smashing, a splendid example of Forstorp's effortless contemporaneity. The tomatoes had been torn apart, as if they had, on their way to the plate, first…

    Aaron Ayscough/ not drinking poison in paris- 2 readers -