• brothers in arms: le cave à michel, 75010

    … bufala and not the ubiquitous bad burrata we're currently wading through at apéro hour in this city. Otherwise, the physical limitations of La Cave à Michel's kitchen seem to have had a tremendously beneficent influence on Tischenko's cuisine. Almost every dish at La Cave à Michel is sufficiently spare for a diner to perceive the care taken…

    Aaron Ayscough/ not drinking poison in paris- 5 readers -
  • reborn: vivant cave, 75010

    … bent of the old menu is a magpie aesthetic that, while rooted in France, borrows from as far afield as Lebanon, Japan, and Forstorp's native Sweden. A tomato salad with shiso leaves was literally smashing, a splendid example of Forstorp's effortless contemporaneity. The tomatoes had been torn apart, as if they had, on their way to the plate, first…

    Aaron Ayscough/ not drinking poison in paris- 2 readers -