Chefs

    brothers in arms: le cave à michel, 75010

    … In writing about Paris restaurant openings, I'm accustomed to grousing about stillborn fads and failed trendhopping. (Meatballs, anyone? Wine by the litre?) But newly opened Place Sainte Marthe wine bar La Cave à Michel floors me, for it's perhaps the first place I've encountered since Bistro Bellet last fall that seems genuinely forward-thinking…

    5 readers - By Aaron Ayscough/ not drinking poison in paris

    reborn: vivant cave, 75010

    … presentation that foregrounded a flavoursome roast courgette. The first of many wines that evening was the most memorable for me: a keen, succulent, herbacious Viognier from young Ardechois winemaker Gregory Guillaume, who began his 3ha domaine in just 2011. The cuvée was quite aptly entitled "Lucky"; it seems providential indeed that Guillaume, in just his…

    2 readers - By Aaron Ayscough/ not drinking poison in paris